For those new to the brewing scene, some of the terminology can be daunting and confusing. In this post we'll break down some of the common words and phrases you'll come across at various points in your brewing journey into easy to understand terms.
Most brewers are well aware of the importance of hygiene and sanitation when dealing with our carefully crafted products. Sometimes though it's the parts you cannot see and easily clean that are harboring some of the nasty stuff we try so diligently to avoid. That's what we discovered when we decided to tear down our taps from our kegerator for a thorough cleaning.
KegLand recently released some Duotight integrated ball lock disconnects to their extensive range of fittings and disconnect options. Before this range of disconnects were available, Duotight integration with disconnects was accomplished by attaching a MFL (female) threaded Duotight fitting to a MFL (male) threaded gas or liquid disconnect.
An amber, hoppy, moderate-strength American craft beer with a caramel malty flavour. The balance can vary quite a bit, with some versions being fairly malt and others being aggressively hoppy. Hoppy and bitter versions should not have clashing flavours with the caramel malt profile.
Amber to coppery-brown in colour. Moderately large off-white head with good retention. Generally quite clear, although dry-hopped versions may be slightly hazy.
Low to moderate hop aroma with characteristics typical of American or New World hop varieties (citrus, floral, pine, resinous, spicy, tropical fruit, stone fruit, berry, or melon). A citrusy hop character is common, but not required. Moderately-low to moderately-high maltiness (usually with a moderate caramel character), which can either support, balance or sometimes mask the hop presentation. Esters vary from moderate to none.
Moderate to high hop flavour with characteristics typical of American or New World hop varieites (citrus, floral, pine, resinous, spicy, tropical fruit, stone fruit, berry or melon). A citrusy hop character is cmmon, but not required. Malt flavours are moderate to strong, and usually show an initial malty sweetness followed by a moderate caramel flavour (and sometimes other character malts in lesser amounts). Malt and hop bitterness are usually balanced and mutually supportive, but can vary either way. Fruity esters can be moderate to none. Caramel sweetness and hop flavour/bitterness can linger somewhat into the medium to full finish.
Medium to medium-full body. Medium to high carbonation. Overall smooth finish without astringency. Stronger versions may have a slight alcohol warmth.
Pale malt will make up the majority of your grain bill. Munich malt can be added from 1-10% as an alternative to the pale malt, for some depth of flavour and to also aid in providing some of the required amber colour.
Crystal malts are added at 1-10% to also aid in providing colour, as well as imparting the desired caramel flavour as recommended for this style of beer. Dial it back if you're not so big on the caramel notes.
Hops are typically added at the beginning of the boil (60 minutes) for bittering, with later additions being added at any or all of 15, 10, 5 and 0 minutes for flavour and aroma.
30 minute additions are redundant and should be avoided (unless you're doing a 30 minute boil instead of 60 minutes) which is becoming increasingly common.
There's no shortage of hop options and varieties, but some popular combinations are;
If in doubt, look to the five C's - considered to be the cornerstones of modern American craft beer brewing. Any or all of these hops in combination will work very well and give that classic american flavour;
Cascade, Centennial, Columbus, Chinook, Citra
Whirlpool hop additions are also optional but can certainly be done to help impart even more hop flavour and aroma in addition to (or instead of) late hop additions to the boil. Typical whirlpool hopstand would be for 15 minutes at approx 80 degrees celsius.
Dry hopping is optional - typical rate is 2-4g/L - being too aggressive can lead you into IPA territory
Mash @ 67C (to create a slightly less fermentable wort to leave a slightly higher final gravity for a sweeter and less dry finish at the end of fermentation)
Mashout @ 75C for 10 minutes
Go for a neutral American style yeast. Some popular/common options are below
You can also go for something a little different and use something like Voss Kveik yeast if you're looking for something different from the usual American style ale yeasts.
Begin fermentation at the lower end of the yeasts recommended temperature range. After at least 5 days of fermentation, begin raising the temperature 1C per day for 3 days (for a 3C total increase in temperature). Raising the temperature towards the end of fermentation helps the yeast clean up after itself and is often referred to as a "diacetyl rest".
Pressure fermentation can be beneficial for this style of beer as fermenting under pressure will help to suppress any off flavours from being created. Typical pressure used is around 10psi.
Cold crashing can be beneficial to this style of beer. If you are dry hopping, it can help the hop debris settle to the bottom of the fermenter with the rest of the trub. Can also help improve the clarity of the beer.
In our previous blog post, we discussed the findings from our research into options and methods for passivating stainless steel. In this post, we wanted to document how we went with actually performing the passivation and a couple of things we learned along the way.
Our latest brew day is for our Vienna Lager recipe which unfortunately didn't go entirely to plan, with our pH meter deciding to pack it in after taking our first sample. Read on to find out more about how it went down.
In the world of homebrewing, there are many techniques and tips that brewers swear by to ensure their beer turns out perfect. One such technique is the idea of a "CO2 blanket" protecting the beer from oxygen ingress and subsequent oxidation. But what exactly is a CO2 blanket, and does the science support this line of thinking?
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There are a number of processes and factors to consider when brewing your own beer. Everyone wants to make the best beer they possibly can, but often want to keep things as simple as possible in the process of doing so. A common question that brewers will ask themselves is "Do I need to rehydrate my dry yeast before pitching it into my wort?"
Looking at purchasing, or have recently purchased one of KegLand's popular FermZilla PET fermenters? Here's a quick list of some helpful hints, tips and tricks from our time using one.
We've made a number of light lagers recently, so in order to continue our quest of continuously trying new and interesting beer styles, we've turned our attention to brewing a Vienna Lager. With more malt character than a regular light lager, the Vienna lager strikes a delicious balance between maltiness and bitterness.
In a recent YouTube video, KegLand had a quick demonstration and run through of the relatively new range of yeasts from CellarScience. This certainly piqued our interest as we're excited by new yeast varieties, particularly dry yeast, as they potentially open up whole new flavour and recipe options to create and hone our favourite beers. In this post, we're going to dig in to see what this Cellar Science yeast is all about.
I recently had the pleasure of chatting with Nico from Keg King about their innovative homebrewing products. Here's a quick rundown of our discussion as well as an embedded link to the YouTube video.
"Soft Crashing" is a relatively new concept that we first heard about when reading up on Lallemand's Verdant IPA yeast. James Heffron from Verdant Brewing Co mentioned that it's something they implement as part of their fermentation schedule to try and avoid hop creep - a phenomenon that causes over attenuation during fermentation as a result of (usually large) dry hops increasing the amount of fermentable sugars within your wort as a result of enzymatic changes from hops breaking down long chain unfermentable dextrins and making them fermentable.
We recently purchased a new stainless steel fermenter. Cheeky Peak Brewery, the manufacturer, recommend passivation of their equipment before first use. This got us wondering about what passivation actually is and why we need to do it, so in this article we'll be outlining our findings.
These mini gauges are a upgrade part for KegLand's range of inline regulators and spunding valves. Check out our in depth review to see how they perform and if they're a worthwhile upgrade.
The FermZilla All Rounder is a relatively simple, yet versatile pressure capable plastic fermenter. It's popularity is largely due to it's simple design, especially in comparison to it's more complicated brother, the FermZilla Conical.
American Pale Ale would have to be one of the most craft popular beer styles, and in this post we'll be taking a deep dive into what makes them, and what you need to include in your own homebrew recipe to make your best version of the style.
After several years of ownership of our KegLand BrewZilla 3.1.1, we wanted to do an in-depth review of our experience with the 3.1.1 version after a number of successful brew days. Read on to find out everything you need to know about one of the worlds most popular all-in-one electric brewing systems.
Once you dive into the world of pressure fermentation, it opens the doors to loads of options and possibilities for achieving things when brewing and fermenting. In this post we're going to look at how you can pressurize and purge your kegs with carbon dioxide (CO2) gas created during fermentation, saving you from wasting precious CO2 from your gas bottle.
Duotight is a range of push in fittings for gas and liquid connections often used in homebrewing keg/draught system setups such as kegerators for connecting beer and CO2 gas lines to and from regulators, kegs, taps and other bits of equipment. The range was first released by KegLand in 2018, with a design update/revision in 2020.
Hop creep is a phenomenon that refers to beer becoming over-attenuated due to additional diastase enzymes being introduced to the wort/beer when quantities of hops are added for dry hopping. These enzymes can cause the conversion of long-chain unfermentable dextrin's into fermentable sugars.
LalBrew® Verdant IPA was specially selected in collaboration with Verdant Brewing Co. (UK) for its ability to produce a variety of hop-forward and malty beers. Prominent notes of apricot and undertones of tropical fruit and citrus merge seamlessly with hop aromas. With medium-high attenuation, LalBrew® Verdant IPA leaves a soft and balanced malt profile with slightly more body than a typical American IPA yeast strain. This highly versatile strain is well suited for a variety of beer styles including NEIPA, English IPA, American Pale, English Bitter, Sweet Stout and Sours.
Hydrometers are a simple but incredibly important piece of equipment for professional brewers and homebrewers alike. They are used to measure the specific gravity of a fluid, which gives a reading on the density of that fluid. In this Homebrew School lesson, we'll take a look at why hydrometers are important and how to easily test their accuracy to ensure you're getting the most out of yours.
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When starting out, most homebrewers opt to package their finished beers into bottles. It's almost inevitable that at some point down the track, most will start looking into options for kegging their beer - to save time and the hassle of endlessly cleaning bottles.
If you're using a single vessel brewing system like the BrewZilla and like incorporating ingredients like wheat and oats into your grain bill, there's a good chance you're going to experience a stuck mash or a stuck sparge. In this article, we'll take a look at exactly what these are, and what you can do to save your brew day if it happens to you.
SMaSH beers are a fantastic way for homebrewers to explore the unique characteristics of individual malts and hops. This brewing method simplifies the recipe, allowing the true flavors of the ingredients to shine.
Most homebrew recipes, books, and other literature reference a 60-minute boil time. For decades, this has been the standard boil time. However, we're seeing an increasing number of recipes calling for shorter boil times, typically 30 minutes. This prompted us to dive deeper into this topic: what are the pros and cons of shorter or longer boil times, and do we still need to do a 60-minute boil when brewing beer?
NEIPA's and Hazy IPA's are undoubtedly one of the most popular styles of craft beer at the moment. Consumers are craving heavily hopped beers more than ever before, but don't necessarily want the assertive bitterness that is typically associated with loads of hops being thrown into a beer.
In this guide we'll go over all aspects of recipe creation to make your best NEIPA/Hazy IPA
Flaked grains are a common and versatile ingredient used in the world of homebrewing. They offer unique characteristics that can help to enhance the body, flavour and mouthfeel of your beer. Let's take a look at what they are, how they're made and what makes them different to the more commonly used malted grains.
These straps are a simple and effective way of tethering your FermZilla to the included metal stand. This makes it much easier to move the FermZilla by picking it up by the handles and having the base move with it.
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In a previous post we covered how to select and setup the BrewZilla equipment profile within Brewfather. But did you know that you can then use this equipment profile to automatically scale any recipe found within Brewfather to suit your BrewZilla?
The beloved IPA has taken the craft beer world by storm, captivating enthusiasts with its bold flavors and rich history. In this article, we'll explore the origins of IPAs, the unique characteristics that define them, and the various sub-styles that have emerged over the years. Whether you're a seasoned IPA aficionado or new to the world of craft beer, this guide will provide you with everything you need to know about this iconic style.
In our previous blog post we ran through some different methods of force carbonating your beer, where some of the methods involve a risk of over-carbonating the beer inside. If you've ever poured a beer and ended up with a glass full of foam, it's quite possible the cause is over carbonation. Here's a guide you can use to correct this if it happens to you.
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Kegging beer into cornelius (corny) kegs is great - much less mucking around compared to bottling, but once your beer has finished fermenting and transferred to a keg, you will need to carbonate it to get the required amount of "fizz" into your beer.
When it comes to homebrewing, the color of your malted grains plays a crucial role in determining the final appearance and flavor of your beer. Two common scales used to measure and describe these colors are the European Brewing Convention (EBC) and Lovibond. In this blog post, we'll dive into what these scales mean, how they differ, and how you can convert between them.
In our previous blog post, we gave an introduction into the world brewing water chemistry and how some of the key elements can impact on your brewing and final beer product. In this post, we'll be covering how to take the information you already have about your brewing water, and enter it into Brewfather to get the details on how to adjust your water profile for your desired beer style.
When it comes to homebrewing, one of the most exciting decisions you'll make is how to store and serve your beer. Two popular options are kegerators and keezers. Both have their unique advantages and can significantly enhance your homebrewing experience. In this article, we'll dive into the differences between kegerators and keezers, helping you decide which one is the best fit for your needs.
Ever wondered why your homebrew doesn't quite match up to your favorite craft beer? The secret might be in the water! Water is the most significant ingredient in beer, yet it's often overlooked by home brewers. This post aims to break down some of the daunting and overwhelming concepts of water chemistry, making them easier to understand and giving you the confidence to begin adjusting your own brewing water.
Dry hopping is a crucial technique in homebrewing that can significantly enhance the aroma and flavor of your beer. In this post, we'll explore what dry hopping is, why it's used, various dry hopping methods, and recommended dry hopping rates for popular beer styles. Let's dive in!
Pressure fermenting is a relatively new concept in the world of homebrewing. As the name suggests, it's a process that involves having your fermentation occur in a sealed vessel that is capable of holding pressure. These can be made of stainless steel, or in some cases, even specialised plastic.
Spunding valves are a relatively simple but crucial bit of equipment when dealing with pressure fermentation. A spunding valve allows you to set a predefined level of pressure within your pressure fermenter which the valve will maintain by venting or releasing any pressure above this predefined level.
A big factor for many brewers is the efficiency they're able to get from their equipment. Efficiency refers to how much sugar they're able to extract from the malts or grains in their recipe - and the more you can extract, the better (and stronger) your beer will be. In this post we'll look at some methods you can use to ensure you're getting maximum efficiency from your BrewZilla all-in-one brewing system.
The Kegland FermZilla is a great bit of kit that can be used for pressure fermenting. When fermenting under pressure though, it's important that the vessel does not have any leaks. Thankfully, the All Rounder model is quite simple in it's design, so there's really only a few places that leaks can come from, so troubleshooting it really isn't all that hard. Is your FermZilla leaking or not holding pressure?
The Kegland Brewzilla is an excellent piece of brewing hardware but is missing some detailed instructions on how to actually use it. We've compiled this post as a follow up to our Getting Started & FAQ, to give an easy to follow step by step guide on completing a full brew day using the BrewZilla.
After making the jump from bottling to kegging - we still wanted a way to be able to bottle our beer occasionally so we could share it with friends and family - or take a couple of bottles to parties etc. Counter pressure bottle fillers looked good but cost more than what we were willing to pay - so we thought we'd give the KegLand Bottle Filler Beer Gun a try.